Friday, June 24, 2011

Expidentures in Empanadas

I had been planning on trying to make empanadas for a long time now. Trying to cook new foods is always fun for me. After much search for a manageable recipe, I finally came across one that was not only in English, but written by a woman who married an Argentine and is now living in Mendoza (wine country) of all places. Her name is Rebecca and she is the author of the blog From Argentina With Love. She talks hits every major topic about living in Argentina from the perspective of an American exquisitely. However, my favorite section is her recipe section.

As I followed her recipe there was only one down side. Yes, when she uses pounds, cups and Fahrenheit as forms of measurement, it makes my life easier, but I'm in Argentina. My oven measures Celsius. Oh, wait. Never mind. my oven doesn't measure anything. It is just a knob marked by the words horno, min and max. No degrees. Just guesstimations. And if I was not in enough danger with this, it is a gas oven to. As in I have to light it. Uhhhhhhhhhhh.....................

I was clueless. I had managed to overcome the measurement obstacles and figure out half a kilo was close enough to one pound to make the recipe ok. On top of that, I had found a youtube video to educate me on properly folding the empanada dough. Celsius was probably another challenge I could have figured out too, but lighting a gas oven sounded dangerous for someone to do without any direction.

Sadly, my roommate was out and unable to help me. Lucky for me though I have Nick. Nick is my coordinator for my program. He mostly deals with students once they arrive in BA. He oordinates events (hence his title as 'coordinator') for us weekly, answers our questions about the city, helps us make weekend travel plans and hosts mate and medialunas every Friday. I have been planning on going to mate and medialunas so I took it upon myself to run there and have him inform me on how to light a gas oven.

Of course when I got home there was Sole to give me more specific directions for our particular oven (a precaution I found necessary), but I really wasn't hungry so I didn't make them. They went in the freezer. I went to Uruguay, and baking process was put off five days.

Finally on Wednesday I had to chance to try and light the oven myself and finish the empanadas. Luckily, I succeeded in both. I even got compliments from my roommates. Ok, the were kind of ugly. They had been frozen and I could not locate any non-stick spray for the pan, but all that matters is the taste right?

¡Besos!
La porteña Emilia

Dangerous Activites

It doesn't matter where you are in the world. Every country has a national sport to obsess over. The United States has football, Finland has hockey and here in Argentina they have soccer. Seeing as I lack the desire, interest and attention span to enjoy and sporting event, I have yet to go to any soccer game here. However, I still find it rather interesting how obsessive people are over sports.

Today the United States Embassy set out an alert to all American citizens traveling and living in the Buenos Aires area to stay away from an Extraordinary Soccer Match. Yes, people. Apparently if I were to go to this match or anywhere near the stadium my life could be threatened do to potentially hostile fans. This match is going to help determine whether a certain soccer team (don't remember the name of said team) is going to stay on the 'A-List' or be demoted to the 'B-List.' Think of it as one game determining whether the Braves stay a pro-baseball team or are demoted to the minor leagues.

Outrage. Shear outrage. No worries, friends. I will not be hit on the back of the head with a glass bottle today. No soccer matches for me.

¡Besos!
La porteña Emilia

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Well, It's Not the Ritz, But it Will Do

Americans do not use hostels. They don't. I just found out a few weeks ago that there are even a handful in the US when I looked them up on Hostel World. We have hotels for every price range, but I promise you less that one out of every 1,000 people utilize the hostels in America. I was shocked to find out we had any honestly.

For me, traveling has been a bit different even from the hotel world. In my family we timeshare. If we were planning a trip together, we were staying in a condo. The more rooms the better. If not we yell at each other for having the TV on too late or someone (dad) is snoring and no one else sleeps. Vacations were just nicer in a condo. Plus, I always liked the jacuzzi bathtubs. You had best believe that is my favorite nightly ritual on vacation.

If we didn't stay in a timeshare, it was always a top quality hotel. For example, staying on the grounds at the Biltmore Estates was quite the experience. I felt like a princess and I ate like one too. When I travel with my nona there is a rule that the hotel my be five stars, room service will be utilized daily and a private tour of the city in a limo stocked with champagne are all musts.

Needless to say, I travel extravagantly and thus far I have avoided ever staying at a hostel. This is quite amazing seeing as I have had my passport(s) stamped in six different countries and my total time abroad adds up to over half a year (come August). Yet, some how I never stayed in a hostel until just over two weeks ago. It had to happen eventually I guess. Since then I have stayed at three and they couldn't have been more different.

The first one I stayed at was Hostel Suites Mendoza. It was very hotelesque. My room only housed three people. Private bathrooms in every room. Ok. The bathroom sucked. It was about 1.5 squared yards in spaced total. This included the toilet, sink and shower. I felt extremely obese showering because I could not move without bumping into something. Plus the rinky dink shower curtain did not keep the water from going everywhere. One girl there with me (a big group from Road went together) described the experience as being able to use the toilet while showering at the same time. This is no exaggeration.

I actually really liked this one though. The hot water functioned better there than at my apartment so I was thrilled. The people working there knew about things to do in the city. Good internet access. Neat people staying there (we met a guy from France that has been traveling for seven years. SEVEN YEARS).

Now, the next place I stayed at was not good at all. It was in Colonia and I probably would have liked it better had the weather been better. To best describe the place, I would have to say there were two courtyards, one was covered and surrounded by the common area, kitchen, office and one dormitory, all of which had a door closing them off. Then, there was an open area that connected the two courtyards. No door. The second one was surrounded by two levels of dormitories and three bathrooms. In my opinion it was very traditional South American home. Where I live is much nicer, but this hostel was the way the majority of South American homes actually are.

Now, like I have mentioned. The weather was BAD. Thunder. Lightning. Flooding. All in the covered courtyard while we were trying to eat. Did I mention it was a tin roof? I got scared and ran in the common area. Being flooded on is not pleasant. The various leaks in the common area was much more bearable. Later on while showering during a break in the storm, I came across the bathroom experience. They came fully equipped with a squeegee and in typical South American fashion, turning the water heater on first was a necessity. The water heater was directly above the bathtub. so was the plug for said heater. I guess it was safe though seeing at he shower head could only go straight down, not arch out. The water went no where near the heater. Sadly though the water only stayed warm for a few minutes and just got increasingly colder with no safe way to fix it. To do so would require adjusting the water heater. You can't do that wet...

Then name of this place was El Español Hostel. If you go during the summer when a cold shower is enjoyable and there isn't rain, this would actually be an alright place to stay. Unfortunately, this was not a part of my experience. All I could think about was that my nona would not approve of my living conditions that night.

My all time favorite hostel was the last one. No question. It was Boulevard Sarandí Hostel. Located in la Ciudad Vieja which is probably the most charming part of the city. it was an only 1800s house that had been renovated. Think cool NYC loft with the exposed brick, high ceilings, neat colors, great balconies and antiques scattered around. Heaven, right?

The staff was PHENOMENAL. Beyond friendly. When the work was done or there was a break, they always pulled up a chair to talk. Most places, the staff is just there for the work and leave. No strong personal bonds. This was not the case at BSH. Both nights I was there one of the staff offered to show us a bit of the night life. I accepted the second night. A Monday night in the winter in Montevideo is not the most happenin night. Really wasn´t a shock there, but every once in a while it is nice to have someone force you out of your pajamas and make you go out. That in and of itself made it all worth while. Oh, and did I mention great showers, comfy beds, fully stocked kitchen and warm dorm rooms? I would have stayed if I could. Well, actually I could have. My internship did not start Wednesday like I thought, but I didn't know that until I was an hour from BA. Oh, well.

Even right now as I write this I would LOVE to write a good review for BSH on Hostel World. Sadly, either I'm dumb or they won't let you unless you have booked that hostel through their website. If I am just dumb though, someone please tell me so I can up their rating. 84% is unjust considering how amazing they are.

So now, I leave you all. Maybe you will have a better understanding of the hostel operations. Yes, you really can just show up and a bed will be provided for you if available. Usually, yes. Accommodations are not always ideal, but they aren't scary like the movie Hostel would lead you to believe.

¡Besos!
La porteña Emilia

Enchantment is Only a Ferry Ride Away

Uruguay. Not very many people are dying to go there. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if most travelers only go there because it is only an hour away from Buenos Aires and a very easy country to enter. Regardless of one's reasoning behind going there, I think Uruguay has a certain character that captivated me. I would love to go back. Honestly, I think I was the only one on my four person trip that felt this way. Apparently they like how much bigger Buenos Aires is over Uruguay, but for me that is exactly what I preferred about Uruguay. Big cities are just not something I can handle.

Alright. I have to admit Sacramento de Colonia was a bit too small. It is not a joke when people say that you can see everything in a day. I am even willing to put money on the idea that it could take less than that. All that aside the most important thing is that Colonia is a place you CANNOT miss. Enchanting. Romantic. Stunning. This are just a few words that encompass Colonia. Cobblestone, rocky coast lines and beautiful gardens surround the center of town. It is captivating. They can also boast having the nicest people (well, person) I have ever met. When a local asked me in English where I was from, it wasn't so he could practice. It was so he could tell me "Welcome to Colonia." I almost cried from gratitude. This place was incredible. I recommend it as a MUST for anyone traveling South America, but to be fair, I don't know if I could live there. After a whopping six hours, you run out of things to do. However, this is not the case in Montevideo.

I could not help but love Montevideo. The old architecture that people travel all the way to Europe for is just as prevalent there (and in BA too for that manner). Huge statues, cute parks and plazas. Adorable beyond belief. The best part is, it's smaller than BA. It has the big city feel (which it is, over half of the three million people living in Uruguay live in Montevideo) with fewer people. It felt more relaxing. More calm. No need to wake up early in the morning. A lot of (tourist) things did not open until after noon.

Because it was smaller too, it felt like it would be a lot easier to meet people. I could probably go to a different bar every night in Buenos Aires, Montevideo has a smaller selection. I'm a fan of this. It absorbs you into the culture. You cannot avoid it like you can here.

I think Montevideo would be a great place to do study abroad. You still get the obnoxious castellano instead of español, a lot of similar culture too, but the calmness that I am used to with living in Mobile can be found here. Horns are not honking 24/7 here. Silence can be found in the middle of the night. If I had to pick between the two for a place to stay for a long time, it would definitely be Montevideo. Living and working I'm not so sure about. I talked to one of the guys working at my hostel (same one who shared the Sweet Home Buenos Aires video with me) and minimum wage there is based on monthly salary, not hours, at $300 USD per month. Nothing. And Montevideo is more expensive than Buenos Aires. No joke. Ok, from my American POV it still wasn't too bad, but I just find that sad. I did the math and that is the same an American would make working full time on minimum wage.

All in all I took a lot of time to chill there too. Sometimes being lazy is just as nice as seeing everything. Plus, it was kind of cold and rainy. Very rainy. Almost depressingly so, but sometimes you just have to take what you are given. It was a holiday weekend. Flag Day. Had to take advantage of the long weekend.

¡Besos!
La porteña Emilia

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Home

After my weekend trip to Uruguay I realized something on the way home. Buenos Aires was starting to feel like home. I was so ready to go back to my teeny tiny room on the third floor of 3252 Mansilla. All my stuff is here. It is the place I go to relax and escape. It's also where I keep my personal stash of food and is located in the part of the city I know the best. Ok. My father isn't here. My brother isn't here. Neither of my nonas are here or my countless other amazing friends and family. For the time being however, home is defined as the place where all my stuff is, and that is ok by me.

I leave you now with the amazing artistic abilities of Charly Garcia singing a knock-off of 'Sweet Home Alabama' and a guaranteed promise that tomorrow I will share my insights about Uruguay and my time there.









Due to operator errors, incapabilities and pure exhaustion here is a link to Sweet Home Buenos Aires. I highly recommend you watch.


¡Besos!
La porteña Emilia

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Standing Still

Crossing boarders is a lot quiciker in some countries than others. This weekend is a holiday weekend in Buenos Aires. Flag Day is Monday. In honor of the long weekend me and three friends decided to go to Uruguay for the weekend. It is literally a 1-3 hour ferry ride across the river. After check-in the man told us to go upstairs to immigration. We waited in a pretty quick line. Then, it was my turn. As I showed up passport in hand and customs form completed I walked up to the counter. I was greeted my a nice porteña who told me to sign my form (oops) then stamped me out of Argentina. I was in international territory. There was a man next to her who was not taking guests of his own. I had no idea why until she handed him my papers. Upon closer inspection of the window in front of me I saw the first woman had and Argentine flag infront of her, and he had a Uruguayan flag in front of him. During that brief moment of discovery, the man stamped my passport into Uruguay. I had gone from being in Argentina to being in international territory to being in Uruguay without even moving a muscle. Isn´t life spectacular?

¡Besos!
La porteña Emilia

Friday, June 17, 2011

El Vino Argentino

Exactly 10 days before I left for Argentina I was blessed with my 21st birthday. Within a few years the luxury of being able to purchase alcohol in the United States will wear off, but for now it's nice. In honor of being able to purchase alcohol back home, I decided to partake in wine courses here in Argentina. I mean, now that they can finally be applicable to my daily life, I found it to be a necessity.

In my my classes I was able to learn about (1) what foods to pair the different types of wine with, (2) practiced detecting different scents in the wine, (3) examined the color of the wine, (4) detecting different levels of alcohol in wine by sight and (5) the wine making process. We will now transition to a place will I will further elaborate on my new intelligence or lack thereof.


(1) Food pairings

Tinto: red meat, cheese, pasta with a red sauce, red meat and cheese
Blanco: desserts, cheese, white meat, cheese
Pumante: Everything (personal opinion)

During my time in this class we were served various tapas. My favorite was the cheese. Every time you eat the cheese with a different kind of wine, the flavor changes. It is quite amazing and always fun to try and predict what the impending flavor is going to be.

(2) Scents

Tinto: still clueless
Blanco: granny smith apples
Pumante: yuuuuuuuuuuummy

This was by far the hardest thing to decipher. I really could only make up my mind with the white wines about what it reminded me of. They tend to be fruitier and I know the scents of fruits a lot better than spices.

(3) Color

Always examine the wine at a 45 degree angle over a white piece of paper. I always got confused after this part. When you look at the wine the color in the white wine is in the outside and the reflections are in the middle. With red wine the color is in the middle and the reflections are on the outside. I'm pretty sure this is what I always think, but I was told I was wrong several times after learning this for the first time. It could be the opposite, so maybe this section is irrelevant.

(4) Determining the alcohol level

Step One: Swirl the wine.
Step Two: Look at the tear drops falling down the side of the cup after the swirl.
Step Three: If they fall fast, there is less alcohol. If they fall slow, there is more.

(5) Production

This part might only be interesting to me, but that's ok since it is my blog.

Wine making starts from making sure each and every grape is absolutely perfect. Any imperfection and you can taste it in the entire batch of wine. No, the grapes being used are not the same ones you buy at the grocery store. These particular grapes come in many varieties too. Did you know that the 'type' of wine is actually the name of the grape? As in chardonnay is a grape before a kind of wine.

Next they carefully transport the grapes to the winery. To keep from breaking the skin and causing a natural fermentation process to start, they first wash them clean of all natural yeasts and place the grapes in a pneumatic press. This is a giant balloon that expands inside a tank to gently juice the grapes.

The juice is then place inside a tank where yeast is added for fermentation and the temp is carefully monitored to make sure the yeast doesn't die and stop the process. In red wines there is also a pump to keep the color consistent throughout the wine.

After an uncertain amount of time it is ready for one of three things. Bottling, aging, or moving on to becoming champagne. If aging is the choice it must go into an oak barrel. That is where wine gets all of its wonderful additional flavors from aging. The wood.

Now, technically champagne is only available in the Champagne region in France. In all other places it takes on a different name like sparking wine or vino pumante. To evolve into vino pumante, it must go through a second fermentation process. This can either be in a different tank or in an individual bottle (Dom Perignon is of this variety :))


Conclusion:

So, my intelligence is still rather elementary. At least I learned something. I was so obsessed with the idea of wine here I even made a special trip to wine country. It was amazing. I went to an organic winery where they would plant different fruit trees all along the periphery of the grape fields to act as a natural barrier for pests. Cool stuff.

¡Besos!
La porteña Emilia